Ah Yat Abalone

SETTING

This is a large, functional, non-descript restaurant with circular tables, recessed ceiling lights and wood-panelled columns. The middleclass, utilitarian decor is typical of Chinese restaurants elsewhere.

FOOD

This is a place to take a break for a meal only if you are in the area. Seafood dominates but other Chinese dishes are also available. Sauteed sliced lotus, water chestnut and bamboo shoots is a delight, with the addition of carrots and other greens, all stir-fried for fresh flavours. Bean curd with bamboo shoots places big rectangles of braised tofu onto a plate heavy with mushrooms, shoots, greens and carrots on a hidden raft of asparagus stalks. Bean curd spring roll presents eight pieces which are crispy and not oily, and packed with munchable vegetables. As its name suggests, abalone is a speciality here and should be tried. If you stray from the extensive seafood list, best is to choose barbequed pork which is nice and slightly sweet. An adequate selection of Chinese desserts plus fruit and ice cream is available.

WINES

Not much of a wine list, and staff tries to tempt you by bringing a trio of seemingly nice bottles to your table.

SERVICE

Very attentive staff appears to enjoy repeatedly filling your tea, clearing off used plates, and helping to smooth every detail, so expect friendly pampering.

PRICE

About 2,000 baht buys two people a filling meal, including dessert but without wine.

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