Bai Yun

SETTING

Bai Yun’s arched, ceiling-high windows yield sweeping panoramas of Bangkok from atop the Banyan Tree. Diners settle into a bright, contemporary east-west decor: tallbacked, curved-arm chairs at tables set with simple brown tablecloths and white china.

FOOD

Chef Thinarath Chutto, a nine-year veteran in the business, has a justified, quiet pride in his kitchen’s offerings. The dim sum menu is extensive and hugely popular at lunch. Clay pot baked fresh abalone in ginseng is Australian abalone seasoned with ginger, ginseng, parsley root and garlic on vermicelli noodles and is exquisite, succulent and tender. Steamed giant crab claw in XO sauce is shellfree, flavoured with red peppers, coriander, spring onions, and is fresh, sweet and light. Meat eaters should try wok-fried kobe beef or rack of lamb with black pepper sauce. There are also several soups, including Sichuan seafood soup and double-boiled fresh fish maw. Sea bass with bell peppers, black beans, scallions, straw mushrooms and flat rice noodles is a hearty dish. Select from a variety of Chinese sweets to close a lovely meal while sipping jasmine tea.

WINES

A strong selection from Banyan Tree’s cellars is available, with prices ranging from modest to stratospheric.

SERVICE

Attentive, pleasant, bilingual staff knows the menu well, but could be quicker on replenishing water and dinnerware changes.

PRICE

Dinner for two without drinks can start from 2,900 baht.

8

8

7