Three Spices

SETTING

An open-sided restaurant, Three Spices is situated on Patong’s bustling beach road. This makes for a vibrant people-watching spot but the glare, noise and distractions take away from any intimacy the restaurant has to offer.

FOOD

Sala Bua award-winning chef Ronnie Macuja’s normal stomping ground (also part of Impiana Cabana) is due to reopen after extensive refurbishment and Three Spices has kept him busy in the interim. His trademark inventiveness and iconoclastic touches are obvious. New Zealand green lipped mussels and sweet chilli cream sauce with charred and peppered avocado is light with varying degrees of spice throughout. The excellent presentation is also indicative of the lengths this chef goes to, to achieve such high standards. Panseared fillet of sirloin with soy-braised morning glory and white asparagus and caramelised young onions is a masterpiece of culinary architecture; it is a hearty offering but the soysauce seems to dominate rather than complement the dish. Wokfried fillet of garoupa with wilted Asian greens, squid ink tagliatelli and saffron and coconut sauce is more successful and certainly lighter. Even for those who normally eschew desserts, Cointreau-marinated strawberries, glazed apple and vanilla ice cream should be given a try.

WINES

With a fairly extensive list that features old and new world wines and access to the main hotel’s cellars, diners have enough choices.

SERVICE

Friendly, experienced and natural. The staff displays Thai hospitality and professionalism.

PRICE

Dinner for two, no wine, is 1,100 baht.

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